Chip budding နည္း ျဖင့္ သစ္ပင္မ်ိဳးဆက္ကူးျခင္း
သစ္ပင္စိုက္ဝါဒနာပါသူမ်ားအတြက္
သစ္ပင္မ်ိဳးကူးနည္းပါ၊ လြယ္ကူျပီး စိတ္ဝင္စားစရာေကာင္းပါတယ္၊ စိတ္အပန္းေျဖရာလည္းေရာက္ပါတယ္၊
အိမ္မွာရွိတဲ့ မလွတဲ့ႏွင္းဆီပန္းကို ႏွင္းဆီပန္းေရာင္စုံ လွလွေလးေတြ ျဖစ္ေအာင္လည္း
လြယ္လြယ္ကူကူလုပ္လို႕ရတယ၊္ အသီးပင္ေတြအတြက္ အပင္ငယ္ငယ္နဲ့ အသီးသီးေအာင္လည္းလုပ္လို႕ရပါတယ္၊ ႏွင္းဆီကိုင္းကူးတာကို အရင္ေဖာ္ျပပါ့မယ္။
Chip Budding Roses
မ်ိုးကူးျခင္းမစမွီ သင့္မွာမ်ိုးကူးပင္ေပါက္ရန္ သန္မာေကာင္းမြန္တဲ့ႏွင္းဆီပင္ေတာ့ရွိဖို႕လိုပါတယ္၊ ျပီးေတာ့ သင္မ်ိုးကူးခ်င္တဲ့ ႏွင္းဆီပင္ကိုရွာရပါမယ္၊ ေႏြရာသီလယ္ေလာက္ကေန စလုပ္နိုင္ပါတယ္၊ အဆင္သင့္ျဖစ္ျပီဆိုရင္ေတာ့ ေအာက္ကပုံအတိုင္းစတင္လုပ္နိုင္ပါျပီ။
သင္ႏွစ္သက္တဲ့
အပြင့္ရွိတဲ့ အပင္က budeye (scion) မ်ိုးဆက္ ျပန္႕ပြားနိုင္တဲ့ အငုံကို လွီးထုတ္လိုက္ပါ၊
budeye က အရြက္ ေအာက္ေျခနဲ့ ပင္စည္ၾကားမွာ ရွိပါတယ္။
အလယ္နားေလာက္ကေန rootstock ကိုျဖတ္ထုတ္လိုက္ပါ၊
budeye (scion) ကို ဒီထဲမွာထည့္ရမွာျဖစ္ပါတယ၊္
ျပီးရင္ rootstock ကက်န္ေနတဲ့ ၾကားထဲသို႕
1/4" ေလာက္ budeye ထိပ္ကို ထိုးထည့္လိုက္ပါ။ ဒါက “Chip
budding” ျဖတ္တဲ့နည္းပါ၊
“T budding” ျဖတ္တဲ့နည္း လည္းရွိပါတယ္
သန္႕ရွင္းတဲ့
1/2" parafilm budding tape နဲ့ budeye လုံးဝေပ်ာက္သြားေအာင္ မတင္းမေလ်ာ့ေလး
ပတ္လိုက္ပါ၊ အစိုဓာတ္နဲ့ ေဆြးေျမ့မွူ႕ကေန ကာကြယ္ဖို႕ပါ၊ ရိုးရိုး ပလပ္စတစ္နဲ့ပတ္ရင္ budeye ပ်က္စီးနိုင္ပါတယ္။
ေလာက္အၾကာမွာ က်န္ေနတဲ့မူလအကိုင္းကို
ျဖတ္ထုတ္လိုက္ပါ။
Budding လုပ္ျပီး ေနာက္ပိုင္း 12 weeks ေလာက္မွာ ရြက္နုေလးေတြ ထြက္လာပါလိမ့္မယ္၊ တိတ္ကို မျဖတ္ပါနဲ့၊ သူ႕ဟာသူ ကြဲထြက္ပါေစ၊ မၾကာခင္မွာ သင္လိုခ်င္တဲ့ ပန္းမ်ဳိး ဖူးပြင့္လာေတာ့မွာျဖစ္ပါတယ္။
Quick Tips for Improved Rose Budding
Use a good, sharp
budding knife.
Completely cover
the budeye by wrapping it with parafilm budding tape (it is PARAFILM, not
adhesive tape) to prevent moisture from entering and rotting the budeye.
Note: the budding
tape sold at Frostproof is the wrong type as it is NOT parafilm, just plastic,
and does not seal well, in my opinion. Regular rolls of plastic used to stake
up plants is also the wrong type and will not work well for budding and
grafting
Use well-rooted
rootstock, but not overly rootbound.
Keep the
rootstock and budded plant well watered two weeks before and after budding.
Do not fertilize
the budded roses until it has produced new growth of at least 2".
Do not unwrap the
tape from the graft; let it rot and fall off naturally.
Cut the scion of
the desired rose to be budded just a few minutes before budding.
You can soak the
scion in water, but make sure the water is kept clean.
Keep the work
space, scion, and bud knife clean to prevent bacteria from rotting the budeye.
After cutting off
the tops of the rootstock, and after new growth begins to emerge from the bud
eye and has grown, pinch off the first several blooms while they are still in
tight bud stage. This is to keep stress off of the bud union to help prevent it
from breaking off before it has a chance to heal.
Once the new
stems get to about 6 inches tall, we recommend staking the plant to hold it
securely.
အခ်ို႕ေသာ သီးပင္ပန္းပင္ေတြအတြက္
Chip budding
Chip budding is one of the easier
forms of grafting. A bud, rather than a shoot, is attached to a rootstock to
make a new plant. With practice, this technique can be mastered by anyone and,
as just one bud is needed to make a tree, it is very efficient.
Quick
facts
Suitable for Trees, especially rose family plants (Rosaceae)
Timing Mid- to late summer
Difficulty Moderate
Timing Mid- to late summer
Difficulty Moderate
Suitable
for...
Chip budding is often used for fruit
and ornamental, deciduous trees. Trees in the rose family such as apple,
cherries, hawthorn, pear, plums and Sorbus are especially amenable to
chip budding. Acers, Laburnum, Magnolia and Robinia
are other trees frequently budded.
When
to chip bud
Chip budding is carried out between
mid-summer and early autumn. This is an advantage over T-budding which can only
be carried out in mid-summer.
How
to chip bud
Before you start, you need to choose
a rootstock (the plant you will be propagating onto). Rootstocks can often be
bought from rootstock growers and nurseries that specialise in the type of
plant in question. Alternatively, they can be raised from seed or cuttings.
Choose a rootstock with
desirable characteristics; such as a dwarfing habit that makes fruit trees more
compact, or a rootstock that resists root diseases, or one that is easier to
propagate than the scion (top part of the budded tree).
From mid-summer choose
the buds you wish to chip bud, by selecting non-flowering shoots
that are a similar diameter to the rootstock, from well-ripened, current
season’s growth. Remove these 'budsticks' from the parent plant so that
they can be budded onto the rootstock.
- To prepare the rootstock, cut off all shoots and leaves from the bottom 30cm (1ft) of stem.
- To prepare the ‘budstick’, remove the soft, fleshy, tip growth and remove all leaves with knife or secateurs, leaving 3-4 mm (1/8in) stubs of leaf stalk.
- Make a second cut about 4cm (1½in) above the first. Cut down through the wood to meet the first cut, taking care not to damage the bud
- Place the bud chip into the ‘lip’ of the cut rootstock so that the cambium layers match as exactly as possible. Bind the join tightly with grafting tape or strips of polythene taken from a plastic bag, leaving the bud and leaf stalk exposed.
- The following spring, cut back the stock just above the bud. Plant out the following winter after the bud has grown into a new tree.·
Problems
Failure of buds to take usually
results from not cutting accurately enough to get the cambium layers to match.
Practise on spare shoots until a really good match can be reliably cut. Some
less experienced gardeners like to attach several buds as at least one should
take. The RHS, horticultural colleges and others offer budding courses and
these are strongly recommended.
Knowing when to remove the bud ties
can be difficult; the bud and the cambium must have united and this is
indicated by swelling of the budded part of the stem.
ေပ်ာ္ရႊင္ၾကည္နူးနိုင္ၾကပါေစ
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