It usually takes six to eight weeks for plants started from seed to be ready for outdoor planting. When you start seeds indoors, you have better control over the environment and can time your plantings to ensure they are not subjected to freezing conditions, which would kill tender seedlings.
Seed trays may be purchased but common household items are just as
effective, such as small cups or bowls. I like the plastic containers that you
get at the grocery store or from a take-out restaurant. They have a clear
plastic lid, perfect for watching your progress and keeping moisture in.
For planting, use a seed
starting mix that is “soil-less”. You can make your own, or buy ready-made
products at any garden center. These mixes are light, and sterile(unable to
produce plants). They are usually made up of a combination of peat moss,
perlite, and vermiculite. Avoid using garden soil. It is too heavy for tender
seedlings, plus soil contains disease pathogens, which can kill your plants.
When sowing seeds, pre-moisten the mix so the seeds are not
disturbed by water after planting. It should be about the dampness of a wet
sponge. Assuming the container or tray stays covered, the mix should hold all
the moisture the seeds need to germinate. However, not all seeds have the same
germination requirements, so it’s best to refer to instructions on the seed
packet or elsewhere for specific details.
Next, cover the trays with a plastic lid that allows light through
but holds moisture in. Plastic bags work well. With adequate moisture,
condensation will develop inside this tent or cover.
Supplemental lighting is important for best growth. A simple shop
light consisting of two 40-watt florescent bulbs is perfect and very
inexpensive. Place your tray or containers under the lights and positioned just
above the container cover. The lights should stay on for about 16 hours
each day.
Starting plants from seed
provides a greater variety than can be found growing at the garden center
Keep an eye on the seeds daily. As soon as you notice them
sprouting, remove the cover. Too much trapped moisture could cause plants to
rot. Placing a small fan nearby to keep air moving across the soil will help
keep new seedlings disease-free.
Lastly, continue to add water as needed to keep the soil moist but
not wet. Once the cover has been removed, soil will tend to dry out more
quickly. Be sure to continue to raise your light, keeping it to within an inch
or two from the tops of your sprouts. In about six weeks, the seedlings
will be ready to transition into the
garden.
Starting seeds indoors is just one more element of gardening that I
find addictive and a great activity when not much else is going on in the
garden. As a bonus, your seedlings will reward you with months of vivid colors,
fresh produce and the satisfaction of knowing you had a hand in making it
happen.
The plant prefers complete shade, so it is ideal for gardens that don't get a lot of sun. But Wasabi is a finicky plant, and serious growers often turn to greenhouse culture to grow it. Wasabi is usually planted from potted nursery starts in the early spring. The rhizomatous stalk will not be ready for harvest until the second year.
Growing wasabi plants is frankly difficult because their growing needs are so specific. Wasabi requires shady conditions, uniformly moist but not wet soil, and temperatures between 45 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit without a lot of temperature swings. If you have such conditions in your garden, wasabi can be planted in the spring, preferably from well-advanced potted nursery starts at least 1 foot tall. If conditions are less than ideal, wasabi can be grown in containers, which can be moved around to keep the plant in perfect conditions.
If planting in the garden, choose a shady location with well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral soil.
Wasabi Care
Light
Direct sunlight is not tolerated well by wasabi, so make sure the plants are shaded. You can create a shade barrier with fabric (shade cloth) or a folding screen. Container plants can be moved around to keep them in the shade.
Soil
Wasabi plants in the garden require rich, consistently moist soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH. If growing in containers, use a one or two-gallon pot with a 10-inch planting depth. Mix up some rich soil with compost; slightly heavier than potting mix medium, so it will hold moisture. Plant your nursery starts so that they stand upright, leaving part of the rhizome exposed.
Water
Water your wasabi well at planting and then regularly after this. Misting the plants will also help keep them cool. Take care not to overwater as these plants don't tolerate waterlogged conditions.
Temperature and Humidity
One important consideration for growing wasabi is that it tolerates only a narrow temperature range, preferring constant temperatures of 45-75 degrees Fahrenheit.
Temperatures below freezing or above 80 degrees Fahrenheit can kill the plant, so these extremes should be avoided. Some coastal locations, such as the Pacific Northwest, provide the suitably cool, temperate weather for growing wasabi. Planting in containers means you can move the plants if the thermometer suddenly gets too high or too low.
If the leaves get droopy or wilted, move the plants to shade and mist them a bit.
Wasabi Varieties
There are a number of popular cultivars of wasabi, including:
- 'Daruma' is more tolerant of high temperatures than most varieties.
- 'Fuji Daruma' is a fast-growing variety, ready to harvest in the same year it is planted.
- 'Green Thumb' is a good choice for edible leaves.
- 'Sanpoo' was developed to grow well in poor soils.
- 'Mazuma' is a slow-growing variety that takes up to three years for the roots to mature.
Harvesting Wasabi
You won't be able to harvest the rhizomes of most wasabi plants until the second year, so it's important to care for them attentively. The plants will be mature enough for pulling within fifteen months to two years. However, the plants will begin producing leaves within about eight weeks, so you can enjoy the leafy bounty of your plants while you wait for the mature stalks. It's good to harvest these leaves to keep the plants neat and healthy.
After your first harvest, let the plant grow more leaves and harvest them every 6 to 8 weeks. If you can't eat them all or give them to friends, the leaves can be blanched and frozen like any greens, or you can make a pesto-like sauce for pasta and rice and freeze it.
The stems can also be frozen, but are best eaten fresh. They're crunchy and make a good addition to stir-fry dishes or salads.
Pruning
Removing any wilted leaves that don't perk up after misting. This can help to avoid any spread of disease or powdery mildew.
Propagating Wasabi
In theory, wasabi can be propagated from seed or from offshoots, but in practice most people simply buy new transplants once the old plants are fully harvested. If you do want to attempt propagation, snip off some of the little offshoots that appear at the base of a mature plant and plant them in a 50:50 mixture of sand and compost. In about two months they should develop sufficient roots to be transplanted into the garden or into pots.
Wasabi seeds are difficult to germinate, so they are hard to find, even from commercial suppliers.
Common Pests/Diseases
Several pests may be problems with your wasabi plants. It's in the Brassica family and so any bugs that love to eat cabbage or broccoli, such as cabbage worms, will also enjoy munching on wasabi.
Remove slugs by hand, and aphids can be removed with a steady stream of water or a soft cloth. Make sure cool temperatures and shady conditions are maintained as this will help deter pests. Insecticidal soaps are not recommended for wasabi.
If any fungal disease is present, copper spray or baking soda spray can be used.
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