|
|
Planting |
Water,Temperature |
Fertilizer |
Soil |
|||
|
Citrus |
Prune
during the winter, from December to January, |
Most
citrus fruit freeze at 26F (lemons freeze at 29F) • Citrus trees freeze at
24F • Do not plant in a lawn that requires frequent shallow irrigation –
Grass competes for water and nitrogen • Plant on the south side of the house
to increase heat units • Plant in a well drained soil – Hard to do if you
have a clay soil Some citrus need warmer temperatures in the summer to ripen
the fruit |
Fertilize
in spring with a citrus plant
food. Citrus need extra nitrogen, so look for formulations with double the nitrogen compared to
phosphorous and potassium. These slow release products will feed the
plant over time. If the leaves yellow and the watering is correct, supplement
the granular fertilizers with occasional foliar sprays of fish emulsion. Trees
usually need a zinc spray 4time a year (especially with too much manure for
an organic nitrogen) |
pH of
6.0–7.0 |
|||
|
Cherry |
To stop shot hole borers from attacking your tree, paint the
trunk with white latex paint diluted with equal parts water |
Keep moisture always. Top 2 to 3 in of soil are
dry use drip irrigation for a slow, deep watering |
Apply
in early spring, 1/8 lb Nitrogen for each inch of diameter of
tree trunk. |
Most diseases can be controlled with a copper sulfate spray applied two or three times over the winter
months |
|||
|
Hass |
Plant
in spring (march - June) 15 or 35 ft |
Water
newly planted trees immediately, then two to three times weekly with
approximately 2 to 5 gallons of water at each watering. Allow the soil to dry
to a depth of 2 to 4 inches before watering again. As the tree grows,
decrease the frequency to once per week by the time the tree is one year old,
and increase the amount to 10 gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter.
Reduce watering during the rainy season; however, water the tree in winter
during extended dry spells. |
Spread
20 pounds of gypsum over the soil
around the tree. Gypsum provides calcium and sulfur to the soil. Gypsum also
improves acidic and clay soils. Apply a 21-0-0
fertilizer in February, May and August
for a total of 1 pound of actual nitrogen the first year, 2 pounds in years
two and three, and 3 pounds in year four. Increase the fertilizer amount as
the tree matures, for an annual maximum of 1/2 pound for every inch of the
tree's diameter. Zinc is
especially important for an avocado tree's health. |
Mulch
the tree with 4 to 6 inches of coarse mulch, such as 2-inch redwood mulch.
Pull the mulch 6 inches away from the tree's trunk. The majority of the
avocado tree's roots are in the top 6 inches of soil; mulch helps slow
evaporation of water and protects the tender roots from the hot sun in
summer. Avocado trees are evergreen. The leaves stay on the tree for up to
three years before dropping, usually in spring. Let the fallen leaves stay on
the ground as additional mulch. |
|||
|
Mango
|
In
greenhouse, full light and free air movement are important to avoid disease.
Temperatures below 30 degrees Fahrenheit can severely damage young trees and
temperatures reaching 40 degrees F kill flowers and developing fruit |
Begin
watering the tree in late winter or early spring when temperatures warm.
Water every week or two in the absence of drenching rains until harvest.
Trees growing in sandy soil that drains quickly may need more frequent
watering. |
any
well-drained soil whether sandy, loam or clay, but avoid heavy, wet soils. A
pH between 5.5 and 7.5 is preferred. (slightly acidic to neutral). Mango tree
needs a lot of sun and heat to thrive. Almost 8-10 hours of exposure to the
full sun is required for optimum growth and productivity of the plant. Place
container in South faced spot of your garden. |
||||
|
Dragon |
To propagate make slanted cut and treat with fungicide. Keep shady
place for a week, letting the open cut dry and heal. |
Should
be over 65F. Keep
moist and water once a week. |
Balanced
NPK ratio. Fertilize young, 1-to-3-year old plants once every 2 months. Apply
both traditional fertilizer and manure
or compost to your plant at the same time. Between March and September, apply
the chelated iron or ferrous
sulfate 4-6 times total.[7] AD Nourish older plants with traditional fertilizer
3-4 times a year. Scale back the manure or compost, applying
it twice a year. Between March and September, continue to fertilize your
plants with chelated iron or ferrous sulfate 4-6 times each year.[8] |
||||
|
Olive |
To produce olives, the Arbequina olive tree
requires at least 300 chill hours; that is, 300 hours below about 45°F in the
winter. fruiting may be increased when another variety is nearby for cross
pollination. |
Arbequinas cannot withstand below freezing
temperatures below 25-30°F. |
plant your olive tree
where it will get a minimum of 6-8 hours of sun per day, and preferably full
sun all day with plenty of light. Choose a site with very well drained soil;
olive trees don’t tolerate heavy, clayey soils and it must drain easily.
should be fertilized with a balanced
fertilizer. Stop fertilizing in
late summer so you don’t encourage new growth that could be damaged by frost. |
It is also pest and disease resistant,
especially to fungal diseases. They
do not like alkaline soils. This tree prefers full sun to partial sunlight if
growing the tree outside and has a high drought tolerance. They originate
from the Mediterranean and growing conditions should be simulated to
represent hot and dry conditions with slightly acidic soil. |
|||
Tips for citrus trees
Once established, (usually a year or after the first summer) water
deeply to 3' and infrequently. Deep infrequent watering is very important to
tropical and subtropical fruit trees as most are very suseptable to the salts
in the water and deep watering pushes the salts down away from the roots. Water
established trees twice a week during the summer and once or twice a month
during the winter. Also placement of the drip emitter or hose is important.
Feeder roots are usually 18" deep and extend to the dripline, (the otter
most area of the canopy). If you are still watering an established tree at the
truck you are wasting water since the plant cannot use it. Water and fertilize
at the drip line only once established. Also some varieties should not be
watered at all during the winter,
California is
8 – 10 zone (weather)
little pruning in winter (Dec –Jun)
Don't ever use chemical fertilizers on tropical and subtropical fruit
trees the first year, safer is to wait two years. I only use compost and can't
say enough good things about it. Compost is organic and as it breaks down it
provides a slow steady stream of nutrients. Compost also enriches the soil,
helps break down caliche, encourages beneficial microbes, maintains soil and is
cheap and easy to use. Just pour a layer of 4 inches or more around the tree
being careful to keep it about a foot from the trunk. What can be easier, plus
it is natural.
Some plants such as avocados naturally grow in shade under the protection
of the mother plant or tropical canopy and require several years of shade,
after which they need full sun to flower and set fruit.
The first year or even two you should remove the buds (does not apply to
bananas), so the plant puts most of its energy into developing a good root
system and grows faster so that it can later support larger quantities of
fruit. If you can bring yourself to wait and resist the temptation to taste
your first home grown exotic fruit you will be greatly rewarded later with a
much healthier tree and larger abundance of fruit.
Mango diseases
anthracnose, which attacks all parts of
the tree but does the most damage to the flower panicles. Symptoms of
anthracnose appear as black irregularly shaped lesions that gradually become
larger and cause leaf spot, bloom blight, fruit staining and rot – resulting in
non fruiting mango trees. It is best to plant an anthracnose resistant variety
of mango tree in full sun where rainfall will quickly evaporate to avoid this
problem.
fungal pathogen, powdery mildew, Powdery mildew attacks young fruit, flowers and
foliage, leaving these areas covered with a white fungal powder and often
developing lesions along the undersides of the leaves. Severe infections will
destroy the panicles, subsequently affecting potential fruit set and
production, hence a mango tree not producing fruit. Both of these diseases are
exacerbated with the onset of heavy dew and rain. Early spring applications of
sulfur and copper when the panicle is half its full size and again 10-21 days
later will aid in eradication of this fungal pathogen.
To prevent these diseases, apply a coating of
fungicide on the susceptible parts when the buds appear and begin to open and
ending at harvest time.
Pests
Mites and scale insects can attack mango trees but generally
do not result in the mango tree not producing fruit unless severe. Treating the
tree with neem oil can help alleviate most pest issues.
Mango trees are extremely susceptible to cold temperatures
and should, therefore, be planted in the most protected area of the yard.
Ideally, plant your mango tree 8-12 feet of the south or east side of the house
in full sun to deter the issue of no mango fruit on trees.
No comments:
Post a Comment